El Refugio del Totoroí

Guayabetal, Cundinamarca, Colombia.

Today was an unforgettable adventure as we journeyed to the Cundinamarca Antpitta Reserve (Refugio del Totoroí, Reserva Natural). Our day began at 4:30 in the morning, filled with excitement to catch a glimpse of Colombia’s highly endangered endemic bird.

After a one and a half hour drive, we switched to 4×4 vehicles and continued on dirt roads for about an hour until we finally reached the awe-inspiring Cundinamarca Antpitta Reserve. Despite the challenges of deforestation, 210 hectares of land were secured with the support of the American Bird Conservancy to safeguard the Antpitta from extinction.

The reserve is now under the care of an extraordinary family – Ariel, Nubia, Gerson, and Nicole – who run a delightful restaurant adorned with hand-painted murals of the region’s endemic birds.

Today, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs (Huevos Pericos), arepas, and hot chocolate. Our primary goal was to witness the elusive Cundinamarca Antpitta, and our perseverance paid off as we successfully spotted and photographed this captivating bird.

The Antpitta, a creature of mystery, made its appearance at 8:30 a.m., a testament to Ariel’s unwavering dedication in providing them with chisas -a local subterranean caterpillar that turns into scarab in its adult stage. It’s a sight that few get to witness, as these birds rarely leave the safety of the forest to avoid predators.

The scientific name of this remarkable bird is Grallaria Kaestneri, named after the esteemed Peter Kaestner, who discovered it in 1989. In addition to the stunning Antpitta, the preserve is also home to magnificent hummingbirds, including the Long-tailed Sylph and the Collared Inca.

Thank you to ProColombia and Manakin Tours for your support and for sharing Colombia with us.

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